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Summer - who surfs and what level?

Poll: Who surfs and what level?
Total Votes: 40
No
5
No but I want to learn
6
Yes but pretty much a beginner
17
Yes at an intermediate level
6
Yes and have done it most of my life so I’m decent at it.
6
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Loving this thread. I will eventually move it to “Surfer Progression” so please keep an eye out for it there.

Will also change the topic name to “Summer - who surfs and what level?” - if you’re cool with that, nthn?

 
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Bloody Moderators changing posts!!!!!  hmmm

 
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Originally it started as a post to see who would be keen to do a few weekend surf trips and what level the BW crew were at and has since morphed into something slightly different.  I don’t really mind other than the fact the surfing forum is a bit of wasteland of retired threads that no one looks at!

 
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We are hoping to change that in the coming months. Mike, did you get the PM I sent you?

I don’t have to change the title if you guys don’t want. Just thought it would get more action that way.

 
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More action!!!!!

I’m not 20 anymore!!!!!

 
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No dramas mate, just replied to your PM, I’m missing a lot of those lately!

 
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You should receive an email notification when you receive a PM. Maybe look through your settings. smile

 
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rider26 - 25 September 2012 03:26 AM

You should receive an email notification when you receive a PM. Maybe look through your settings. smile

I have been meaning to tell you, i dont think pm emails are working…

 
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mine does

 
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Yeah mines working, got an email just yesty

 
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Surfing was the absolute hardest thing I’ve ever learned.
I’ve been in the ocean since before I can remember.
Body surfing and free diving helped - having no one to teach me didn’t.

All up it took about 12 months of getting in the ocean 3-4 times a week and freezing through winter in just a spring suit before I could stand and control the board. I didn’t start until I was 20. The weather and conditions couldn’t stop me, shark sightings didn’t keep me out of the water, the size of the waves were no concern.

IT CHANGED EVERY ASPECT OF MY LIFE.

You only become a surfer because you need it, you can’t choose to be a surfer, it is something you can’t live without. More important than sex, girls, money. It’s your souls food.

They say only a surfer knows the feeling, that it’s a religion.

I will always be a surfer no matter how long between waves, no matter how far from the ocean I live.
Salt flows in my veins not blood.

Im married to the ocean and girls are but a mistress that must respect that union.
Either you play in waves or you at one with them.

I guess basically what I’m saying is you can teach a person to surf but that doesn’t make them a surfer.
A surfer is a different species of our race who’s human needs cannot drown their need to have water filling their lungs.

Surfers travel through time at a different rate, surfers know god on a one to one basis and surfers cannot be pigeonholed in societies understanding. They live in a mental place far from what our brain has the ability to comprehend.

 
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i was going to add to my post, that to truly learn to surf you have to make it your lifestyle. Until you’ve had your life literally revolve around the ocean’s goings on, I don’t think u can truly get it. As has been said, standing up on a board isn’t that hard, but everything else about it is and you only ever truly learn about the ocean by being in it and around it and attempting to understand it.

 
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snowbum_spaz - 25 September 2012 01:38 PM

Surfing was the absolute hardest thing I’ve ever learned.
I’ve been in the ocean since before I can remember.
Body surfing and free diving helped - having no one to teach me didn’t.

All up it took about 12 months of getting in the ocean 3-4 times a week and freezing through winter in just a spring suit before I could stand and control the board. I didn’t start until I was 20. The weather and conditions couldn’t stop me, shark sightings didn’t keep me out of the water, the size of the waves were no concern.

IT CHANGED EVERY ASPECT OF MY LIFE.

You only become a surfer because you need it, you can’t choose to be a surfer, it is something you can’t live without. More important than sex, girls, money. It’s your souls food.

They say only a surfer knows the feeling, that it’s a religion.

I will always be a surfer no matter how long between waves, no matter how far from the ocean I live.
Salt flows in my veins not blood.

Im married to the ocean and girls are but a mistress that must respect that union.
Either you play in waves or you at one with them.

I guess basically what I’m saying is you can teach a person to surf but that doesn’t make them a surfer.
A surfer is a different species of our race who’s human needs cannot drown their need to have water filling their lungs.

Surfers travel through time at a different rate, surfers know god on a one to one basis and surfers cannot be pigeonholed in societies understanding. They live in a mental place far from what our brain has the ability to comprehend.


No offence spaz but what the hell is this pseudo guru diatribe???????
Its this kind of thinking that makes surfing down my way a chore and un-enjoyable at times, when guys thinking theyre on some other level of ‘consciousness’ believe they own the waves and can drop in and intimidate people just because theyre on their turf, or just learning, it turns what is a fun activity into the opposite.
Its condracticory for me to say so given what i just wrote but im never normally one to tell people what and what not to believe but your last line is possibly one of the biggest loads of rot ive ever heard.
I think surfing is rad, embrace it for what it is, you dont have to look for deeper meaning and justification in it.
Rant over.
and again, no offence meant spaz smile

 
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I kinda know what Spaz means, a simpler way to put it is that a vast majority of your life is spent revolving around the ocean.  Carrying on like Bodhi from Point Break or Shane Dorians character in “in Gods Hands” is over the top rubbish.  I experience the whole gamut of emotions at various times surfing, being more stoked than I could possibly imagine to abject terror to aggression to sublime peace and calmness that borders on the spiritual or as close to that kinda thing as I can get.  For me the stoke and the terror parts are what get me off the most. 

I have never been as scared anywhere else in my life than I have in the ocean, jumping out of a plane is a distant second, being threatened with a gun didn’t even get there albeit not being pointed at me.  Having said that you put yourself in those situations, it’s a matter of choice and the feeling that comes after surviving things like that is farken awesome.  Adding to that I have never been as stoked anywhere else or as peaceful and calm.

 
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Just got back in from my first “surf” in ages!!!!

Pretty crappy conditions 1-2ft and onshore but still nice to be back in the water. Naturally I sucked but not as much as expected, shoulder joint gave me hell about mid way through the session.

I do love this chilled out feeling of accomplishment as I sit here though!