That One Wave


It’s a bit the same with snowboarding I guess but especially true for surfing I find. Had a bit of time out of the water due to a busted toe about 6 weeks ago. Totally devo when I did it as I was having a period of surf froth reminiscent of 16 yr old self and I really felt like I was actually improving my surfing again.

I got back on a board for a surf about 4 weeks later and found myself nursing my toe through turns, wasn’t much fun. Had a fun surf by myself down Pambula the following weekend but still didn’t feel right and I was a bit bummed as my performance was below the pre injury par and my motivation as a result was kinda low.

Made myself have a quick surf Saturday morning and things started to feel better in the toe dept. Had another surf Saturday arvo and everything just clicked on this one wave, I did one of the best feeling turns I’ve done in quite some time and rode out of it with a no claim claim I’m embarrassed to admit ha ha.

That’s all it takes is one wave, one turn to get ur inner grom frothing again, mine certainly is, anyone else find it similar?


Hahahaha “no claim claim” love those ones.

I guess for me its kinda the same, that one wave or one turn to really get the froth meter up there. I was surfing up at diamond head a couple of weeks back (all to myself) a linked together some great turns. It really got me hyped.

Ive had a bit of time off work the last week and been surfing nearly every day no matter the size or conditions. Full grom stoke at 33 years of age.

Loving it!!!


Yep, I was the 36yr old grommie pissing off all the real groms by paddling for anything and everything that came through.  I think that’s coming back now haha.  I’m probably referred to as the old c### that lives in the club by all the real groms!


I can definitely relate. I grew up surfing and it was the most important thing in my life until I found snowboarding. I still love surfing but travelling the world for snowboarding during the Aussie summer means I was surfing less and less.

Michelle and I took a road trip up the East Coast of Australia a couple of years back, and I got to visit all my old surf spots up the coast. For the most part, I wasn’t nearly as good as I used to be… definitely took some beatings on the first few days. But there was one wave in Byron Bay which was just perfect. It was such a beautiful feeling and I can remember it perfectly. Nothing special but just a perfect ride in how it felt and how I surfed it. Definitely took me back to my younger years when I was a much better, fitter, and smarter surfer. It’s good to know it’s still deep down inside of you.

Thanks for making me remember. shaka