tell us your battle wounds>>

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rider26 - 08 January 2013 05:00 AM

Holy shit, Azz. I hope you’re feeling OK after that. Crazy! Positive vibes coming your way.  cool smile

It was about ten years ago Jez.

Still get a wee bit of curry from the hip when its cold.

 
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Ohhhh… teacherboy

Suck it up then, Princess. kiss

 
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I made the mistake of askin him about his “war wound” once, and he acted just like this!!!!!

 
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rider26 - 08 January 2013 07:45 AM

Ohhhh… teacherboy

Suck it up then, Princess. kiss

I love you too man kiss

 
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Good effort Azz, what hurt the most?

 
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Azz - 08 January 2013 08:19 AM
rider26 - 08 January 2013 07:45 AM

Ohhhh… teacherboy

Suck it up then, Princess. kiss

I love you too man kiss

Just because it was Adultery Day yesterday, doesn’t mean I’m gonna let ya get away with flirtin with Jez!!!!!

 
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Mizu Kuma - 08 January 2013 07:57 AM

I made the mistake of askin him about his “war wound” once, and he acted just like this!!!!!

Hahahaha LOL

 
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snowbum_spaz - 08 January 2013 07:40 PM

Good effort Azz, what hurt the most?

Collapsed lung and ribs, felt like a massive stitch for 3 weeks and could not bear to laugh at anything LOL

 

Hey lads, some great/horrid stories.
Like everyone scars plenty.
When i was a youngun i was surfing a little juicy shorie in the back yard (beachfront living oohhh yeeaahh) and had one of those old school stretchy leggies.
Fell off in the closeout and as soon as i stuck my head up my rounded pin tail was 3 feet from my face and moving at light speed. BAM right in face tail first. I remember seeing the fins and thinkin disfigurement for sure
Went in and was washing the blood off and could feel weird chunk around my nose. Off to the bathroom clean it up “mum check this out my nostril is flapping in the breeze”  She went down haha. 7 external stitches and 5 internal to glue that sucker back down. Day of removal coolum was pumping. First wave face plant side slipping. Hurt like hell but nostril intact.
Another quikkie. I spent many years in the Philippines in the 90s and 00s. One stinking hot can’t breath no wind day me and half a dozen of the local groms grabbed old mate from another village for a lets teach him how to surf. It was 1 foot low tide cloud 9 so about 1 foot deep at best.  What could go wrong.
Well i caught a mini one and was wallowing when a bomb 1.5 foot wide one came. It was sucking near dry in front of me so i smartly duckdived into 6 inches of water only to picked up by the dump and picked up and sucked back over backwards head first. I face planted onto the only sharp part of the reef with my legs sticking up in the air above the water and dragged across the reef for about 3 feet maybe on my face , shoulder and chest.
I paddled back out and the boys were freaking and laughing as the water makes the blood look worse. I could see part of my own eyebrow and got on of the groms reef to rip it off. OOOOUUUUCCCHH. the walk of shame past the guys at the camps was just as painful.
Sorry nearly forgot nudie surf at outer reef me my board my boat all alone. Pants off woohoo. Bailed on a mushroom rock, tiger scrapes on both butt cheeks. Stung like 1000 bee stings. Try explaining that to your girlfriend who has no idea why you’d even nude surf. Crazy whiteboy.

 
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mmmm cloud 9. I have to get there and surf before I get too old!

 
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Greetings boardworld, it’s been a while!

So this weekend I was out surfing south arm in Tassie, notorious for closing out.  It was only about 3ft but powerful.  Took off on a wave and it closed out on top of me. I was held down for a little and my board hit me in the head.  Was a decent knock and left me with a deep gash in the head.  Heaps of blood and felt dizzy and nauseous walking up the beach to my car.  Nothing too serious in the end luckily!

I’m interested to find out your views on better ways to bail in order to avoid impacts with your board like this (if they exist!)?

 
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Gath

 

Ride the closeout like a barrel. Stay in for as long as u can and let the foam ball pick u up. Less impact.

 
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Depending upon how big it is perhaps.  Being swallowed by the foamball can be an interesting experience and more often than not in my experience leads to a much longer hold down than diving off the front when backhand or pinning off the back forehand.  The foamball route is a bit dodgy on reef breaks as well as you can get washed across the reef as well,  smaller sandbottom barrels no dramas, hang on for as long as you can.

 

Gonna agree and disagree here nbg. Yeah longer hold downs but most of us are not riding triple overhead pits so not really much of a drama.
If u ride the foam ball for as long as you can that will cover the reef with more water as the barrel section is always the shsllowest be it reef or sand.  By bailing in the pit u open yourself up to being sucked back over and body slammed onto 2 feet deep reef. The more barrel sessions under ur belt the more confidence this technique brings.
If foam ball ridings not ur gig pull through the back aka island pullout.. I can turn a pigdog into a duckdive in solid surf. Again not triple overhead death pits. Indo phillo aus perfection.  Old school 6 to 8.
Post edit. In no way do i assume anyone here lacks barrel time. Just a general rule.
I think everyone has different techniques that work for them,  mine is avoid the bail.