Camera:

Nikon D70

Lens of choice:

18-70 mm 3.5

Filters:

Polarizing/UV

Programs:
Photoshop CS3

There is a lot of fringing with the 18-70mm, around the 50-70 range. I'm looking to buy the 30mm 1.8 Nikkor, seems a lot of people here use the 50 mm, anyone use the 30mm? 1.8 is more than you would use for the snow but can use it for other things at home.

why would you get a 30mm for snow?
on snow you either use a wide 12-24 or a telephoto 70-200 for 99% of your shots.

30 would give you a 'walk-around' lens...is it cheaper than the new 35mm F2?

My Camera is one of those Olympus Tough cameras. I then use Photoshop to edit or some random video editing software to make videos.

When I went down on the weekend, my mate brought a SLR camera so once I get those photo's I'll put the best ones in the contest.

Yeah I've got the olympus shock/waterproof 10MP thingy... does the job well battery suffers a bit under -15 but keeping it close to my body generally fixed that up. Don't know how to use all the photoshop stuff so point and shoot does it for me.

Photoshop is pretty easy... but a legit version will set you back 500-1000 dollars.

Paint.net is a free photoshop like program with a few less features which can work well until you want to include text lol.

ahh cool, cheers for the tip. I'll have a look into it tonight

Sorry, my mistake meant the 35mm.

I normally use the 18-70mm but I find with most my pics I normally sit around the 18-35mm range. I don't tend to zoom but instead position my-self somewhere. I was thinking the 35mm because it seems to be a good intermediate and as far i know will it handle the different in light e.g. bright behind dark areas, well. Also as i'm using the D70, its not full frame so the lens ends up being around the 50mm. I think is around Aus$360, is that the same as the F2.0?

Do you use the 12-24? Any ideas on price? I was a bit worried about getting into the wide angles like 12 in case it distorts the image too much. I'm still new to snowboard photography so still much to learn

I can recommend the Tokina 12-24 Richie. It's a nice little lens, and at a pretty good price too. There's a newly updated model, but I wouldn't shy away from the older one at all. The updates are only minor.

The model I have (available for both Canon and Nikon) can be had for around $550 brand new these days. I reckon you can't go wrong for that price.

Tokina also do an 11-16, but it's a little more pricey, and that one will distort quite a lot more on the short end.

The 12-24 isn't too bad at all at 12mm in terms of distortion. It's certainly not approaching fisheye levels or anything.

I don't really have a whole lot at 12mm, but this will give you a rough idea.

Mods, if these are too big, let me know and I'll put smaller ones up.

This one is at 12mm, but I got real close to intentionally distort it a bit.



Both of these two are at 16mm.

tjswish - 20 July 2010 02:20 PM

Photoshop is pretty easy... but a legit version will set you back 500-1000 dollars.

Paint.net is a free photoshop like program with a few less features which can work well until you want to include text lol.

This is much better the paint.net Its free for the basic use it does not require any downloads and if you want the full version its fairly cheap.

Down side is it does not work with reallllllly big files but still good to play.

http://www.picnik.com

check it out

Main problem is that it is web based. so unless you have a good connection, there will often be fails and errors which would really sh!t me up a tree!

Thanks Tills, (the pics look great by the way) and they look really sharp without too much distortion.

I've had a quick look into it and I think you have almost sold me, the only thing stopping me is the F4. The 11-16 is a F2.8 which would be nice but i guess its is a lot wider. Decisions Decisions .

Thanks again!

question: in what situations would you need the extra stop?

obviously I don't know you, your ability or your intended subject matter, I'm just wondering if you know why f2.8 is important to you



I have the tokina 12-24 too. I end up using the 24 end more than the wide end. I can put up pics too if you like but not straight away.

Have you thought about a telephoto instead? Getting a 70-300 non-vr used would be pretty cheap

Tills - 20 July 2010 07:38 PM

Mods, if these are too big, let me know and I'll put smaller ones up.

I'm not a mod, but putting a max height of 700px or width of 800px would make your shots fit on a page

Gamblor - 21 July 2010 03:15 PM

question: in what situations would you need the extra stop?

obviously I don't know you, your ability or your intended subject matter, I'm just wondering if you know why f2.8 is important to you

I think a 2.8 would be nice to have, not necessarily for snowboarding but in general. As I said I'm still learning about snowboard photography, I've never used a f3.5, f2.8 or f1.8 at the snow so I don't really know the depth of field needed for a good shot, I've only been able to play with a f4. The other day at Baw Baw i was using a f4 in low light and from what i gathered there was still a little room to play with (say a f2.8 or f3.5 for the depth of field) and a lower f would have helped with the lighting. This is exactly what i need to hear though, because if you've used a f2.8 at the snow and think its too shallow then thats good to know.

I haven't looked into the 300mm yet, always thought they would be very expensive. I have the kit 70-200mm, but might have a look at the 300mm.

If you have any pics at 24mm, it would be good to see them, thanks.
Cheers again.

just got an opteka baby death for the mini dv and hopefully a cam caddie turning up just before we go this weekend